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[personal profile] pasithea
Since Peggy mentioned someone wanted this information:



This is less techy and more hands-on than the skirt design.

First, a list of materials used:
100mm pearlescent plastic christmas ornament kit. This was $1.79 at Michaels and basically comes as two plastic hemispheres which snap together.

Piece of felt 20 cents at Michaels.

2 6" diameter circles of Tule. These are in the Wedding materials section, it was like 2 bucks for a pack of 20.

10" long bit of 1" wide elastic band. (Had this, but it's about 40 cents a foot at most sewing stores)

Two safety pins.

Hot glue.

Heat knife (I used a screwdriver)

Zip Tie

Antennea (Peacock, or ostrich feather or zip ties or whatever else floats your boat)


So, basically, we just held the plastic ornament up to her face and marked where we wanted the band, nosepiece, and antennea to be with a sharpie.

Next, I cut holes in the plastic about 1/4th inch in from the edge. Now... Here's the trick about cutting plastic. It's brittle, it shatters, or it develops fracture points so the trick is, you don't cut it, you melt it. Make your holes with a heat knife (just hot enough the plastic takes about 5-10 seconds to melt through, too hot and it'll be brittle or catch fire) The other thing that's really important here is DON'T BREATHE THE PLASTIC FUMES I didn't have a heat knife so I left an old screwdriver on the burner of my stove until it got hot, then cut with that. I had both fans on the hood turned up to full power. Also, before I began cutting, I'd take a deep breath and hold it so that I did not get any of the plastic fumes. Burning plastic is really really not good for you. It'd be a lot better to do this outside with a heat knife.

The elastic strap should now fit easily through the slots you cut in the sides for it. The antennea should fit snugly in their holes, and the ziptie should fit through the holes of the bridge.

Next is the part where you're likely to get burned, so be careful. Put some hotglue around the edge of plastic (Not the whole thing, only an inch or two at a time) and stretch the tule over the plastic so that the glue oozes up through it. with a wet metal spoon (or, as I prefer to do, with a wet finger) tape down the glue so the tule is locked into it. Let that cool, then work your way around the eye until you meet up again. Try to place folds in the cloth discreetly and remember to match them to the next eye. If it looks like it needs a fold, try stretching the tule more first. When you get to the spots the straps and other holes to through, treat them as the edge of the plastic, going around them so that the tule is kept secure. Nothing's worse than a wrinkled eye.

Next, cut a 1/2" wide strip of the felt and fold it in half. The felt will both pad the goggles for your skin and hold the tule in place. Iron lightly if you have an iron handy. use glue sparecely here. Since this isn't as time critical, you could also use a different tpe of glue here, but basically you want to go around the outer edge of the plastic and glue the felt to it.in a single continusous band.

Finishing up: The rest is easy! The ziptie goes through the bridge, tighten down to your asthetic. The elastic band goes through the holes for it. I used safety pins to pin the elastic back on itself although I suppose one should really use buckles if they're so inclined. Whichever, but you do want the strap to be adjustable so that you can make it looser or tighter in accordace with your needs.

The antennea should be lightweight. Just stick em in the holes

Guess that's about it. Fairly simple thing this time.

Next time I'll see about posting a pattern for the Winglet bra.
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